Wednesday, May 7, 2025

Vanishing Soles: Artisan Stories from Jiyaguda, Hyderabad.

I have recently visited Jiyaguda, a suburb in the heart of Hyderabad. The place was once filled with the beat of hammers shaping leather and the perfume of newly treated hides drifting through small passageways. Jiyaguda was formerly an old community of footwear artisans, with almost 40 families dedicated to making traditional Indian footwear such as Kolhapuri chappals, wedding sandals, and even sturdy boots. Today, only five families carry on this rich legacy of craftsmanship.

I recently met with five local artisan groups and learned about their skills, tradition, and hidden battle. One voice that stuck out was that of Mr.Raju, a recognized skilled artisan whose hands have fashioned countless soles over the years. His words were filled with a quiet sorrow: "There used to be 40 families who worked here." Now it's just five. Even our children don't want to carry this on."

 Craftsman: Mr Raju Preserves Jiyaguda’s Soleful Legacy

These artisans are not just individuals, but entire families working together. Every pair of chappals is the result of a collaborative effort. While males primarily cut and shape the leather, women help with precise embroidery and decorative details, sometimes elderly parents divide responsibilities—cutting leather, stitching patterns, assembling soles.

In most of these families, the younger generation has moved away from the traditional work. But in one of the families, there is still a glimmer of continuity—children, after school, occasionally assist with small, careful tasks, slowly absorbing the skills passed down like oral tradition. It is a rare sight in a fading craft.

Their material selection is what identifies their work as both culturally meaningful and environmentally conscious. Many artisans use recycled tires as soles, reusing leftover rubber beneath traditional footwear. Others choose VT (vegetable-tanned) leather soles, which are more environmentally friendly than chemically processed alternatives. . These practices subtly blend sustainability with heritage.

                                                       Craft on the Curb: Where Streets Echo with Skill

The younger generation has stepped away, drawn by modern employment and the prospect of steady income. For those who remain, the work is more than just labor; it is dedication. It takes about two and a half days to create 50 pairs of chappals, yielding around Rs. 5000 in total. That's Rs. 100 each pair, which includes raw materials, labor, and artistry. It’s not enough for their livelihood

However, the elegance of their work speaks strongly. The chappals they make have the particular look of traditional Indian designs—intricate patterns, precise stitching, and timeless appeal. Each pair conveys a narrative of ancestry, resilience, and humble pride in craftsmanship.

The tragedy of Jiyaguda's artisans is about more than just declining livelihoods; it is also about the loss of cultural identity. These artisans don't just produce shoes; they preserve an art form that has been passed down through generations.

Let’s celebrate the tradition, craftsmanship and soul of Jiyaguda & try to save this community!

Mr Abdul Rahuman M, Sr Faculty@School of Footwear Design & Production

Monday, April 21, 2025

Academic Fest Design Sync 2025- Sunshine, Smile and Spirit of Celebration.

 Today marked the grand opening of much awaited Academic fest Design Sync. What a vibrant start it was. With the sun beaming high and bright it felt like even the weather wanted to celebrate with us. Day 1 was packed with energy, laughter and moment that we'll remember for a long time.

One of the major highlights was the display and artwork by students and creators. This wasn't just any exhibition - it was vibrant celebrations of talent, passion and creativity.


There was inauguration session filled with excitement and knowledge with eminent speakers delivering talks about art and design. It filled everyone with a sense of responsibility as a design graduate to society. Live demonstration by Artisans left everyone amazed with their skills. All got a glimpse about the rich craft of our nation. We have learnt about banana fabric weaving as well batik dyeing techniques from highly skilled artisans You could actually feel the pride and excitement in the air as people stopped to admire.

                                

Next major thing was grand kick off of E-Bazaar and it felt like stepping into festival within the fest. It turned out to be a lively hub of creativity and entrepreneurial spirit. All the stalls were uniquely crafted and full of charm. From trendy clothes to delicious foods to craft merchandise, there was something for everyone.

                                  

This was an exciting start to an Academic Fest comprising Innovation, Integration and Inspiration.

More exciting stories in coming days. Stay tuned

Sarvani Rani B Des Foundation

Wednesday, April 9, 2025

Revolutionizing Diabetic Footwear: Merging Comfort, Protection & Style

INTRODUCTION

Why Specialized Footwear Matters for Diabetes Patients

Diabetes Mellitus (DM) is a silent epidemic, affecting over 77 million people in India alone. With an alarming rise in Type 2 diabetes cases—expected to hit 98 million by 2030—the risk of diabetic foot ulcers (DFUs) is also increasing.

DFUs aren’t just minor foot wounds. They are open sores that, if ignored, can lead to severe infections, reduced mobility, and even amputations. Approximately 15% of people with diabetes will develop a diabetic foot ulcer in their lifetime, and the risk is even higher for those over 60.

While therapeutic footwear is a proven way to prevent complications, most diabetic shoes are outdated, unappealing, and lack customization—resulting in low patient compliance.


STUDY

A Step Forward: The Hyderabad Experiment

To address this issue, an experimental study was conducted by FDDI Hyderabad in collaboration with the Lepra Society in Hyderabad, India. The goal? To test customized footwear with orthosis support and analyze its impact on comfort, pressure relief, and overall foot health for diabetic patients.

The Study at a Glance

110 participants (80 men, 30 women) at low risk of DFUs
Therapeutic footwear with Micro Cellulose Rubber (MCR) insoles & custom orthotic pads
Patient feedback collected to refine future designs

                                          Orthosis pads for deformed feet and foot ulceration

What Do Diabetic Patients Really Want?

The results were eye-opening! A one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work. Patients have distinct preferences based on comfort, usability, and aesthetics.

Here’s what they asked for:

85% wanted variety in colors & styles – Because diabetic shoes shouldn’t look like medical devices!
75% preferred soft, adjustable Velcro straps – Easy to wear, easy to remove.
60% requested closed footwear – Extra protection, especially during winters.
30% suggested adding MCR insoles to regular footwear.
2% desired removable, well-fitting insoles – More adaptability, less hassle.

Key Takeaway? Men prioritized function, while women focused on design. The future of diabetic footwear needs to cater to both!


The Science Behind Specialized Footwear

Why is customized diabetic footwear essential? Here’s how it makes a difference:

Distributes pressure evenly – Prevents hotspots that could turn into ulcers.
Enhances healing – Offloading techniques speed up recovery.
Soft, seamless linings – Reduce friction and irritation.
Advanced materials – Plastozote, memory foam, cork-based insoles provide better support.
Breathable, seamless socks – Keep feet dry and irritation-free.

The Real Challenge: Getting Patients to Wear Them

Even with these benefits, many diabetic patients hesitate to wear specialized shoes. Why?

Limited design options – No one wants to wear shoes that look like medical gear.
Low market availability – Finding the right pair is a challenge.
Price sensitivity – Patients are willing to pay more for good design + comfort, but manufacturers still ignore essential features.

The Future of Diabetic Footwear: Style Meets Functionality

To truly revolutionize diabetic footwear, we need to rethink the way we design them.

Stylish & Aesthetic – Shoes that people actually want to wear.
Adjustable Fit – Soft, cushioned, and easy to customize.
Material Innovation – Smart textiles for better comfort & durability.
Casual & Professional Wear – So patients don’t have to compromise between health & style.

 New possibilities of footwear with Orthosis pads for People with DFU


CONCLUSION

Final Thoughts: Walking Towards a Healthier Future

This study proves one thing: Diabetic footwear isn’t just about medical benefits—it’s about comfort, confidence, and daily usability. With better designs, smarter materials, and patient-focused innovation, diabetic shoes can move beyond hospitals and become a lifestyle choice—helping millions take safer, healthier steps every day.

After all, a shoe isn’t just a shoe—it’s a step toward a better future.

Link to access full research paper-  https://rb.gy/ik9i59

Abdul Rahuman M, Senior Faculty @ School of Footwear Design & Production, Hyderabad

Thursday, April 3, 2025

Aesthetical Look vs Quality Performance of a Shoe: Which is more important?

Introduction

It is always felt as a conflict between two priorities –looks and quality performance, while we choose our footwear. We want our shoes to be more stylish and fashionable, which will make us feel confident and trendy. But on the other hand, we want the durability, comfort, balance, performance and overall value of the spent money.


Aesthetical Look:   The Visual appearance to influence purchase behavior

Stylish shoes are essential to make our day to day life match between our clothing and make a definite statement.  A stylish pair of shoes can elevate our mood, boost our confidence, and make us feel good with following major attributions:

·         Fashion Statement

·         Expression of personal style

·         Matching touch with outfit

 

Quality Performance: functionality and fitness for purpose

Quality performance is not just about what material composition is used or the method of constructing a shoe. It is also based on the craftsmanship, risk analysis and understanding of minute details that make it suitable for intended use. While aesthetic look is crucial, but quality performance has equal significance prioritizing the following factors:

·         Comfort and support to feet

·         Prevention of Injuries and discomfort

·         Offer durability and longevity

·         Withstand the demands of daily wear and tear


The Ideal Balance: Aesthetical Look and Quality Performance

So what do we have to do when we have to choose between an aesthetically pleasing look and quality performance? The outcome is that the ideal decision should be to make a balance between both an aesthetically pleasing look as well as and quality performance both

Selection of a shoe with style and substance

Checking of material and construction: Ensure that the shoe is made of high-quality materials and construction.

Sole of the shoe- We can say the sole of a shoe is where all the balance of a shoe lies.  We should check for proper walkabout balance, slip resistance and pasting of the sole with upper.

Reviews:  Previous experiences of the customers about feedback, returns and comments regarding performance can also help to make the decision.

Fitting & comfort: Each feet has its own shape hence the fitting also will differ. We need to check the proper comfort fit before purchasing.


Conclusion

We can say that for a perfect shoe we need to make a balance between both options: aesthetical look and quality performance in footwear. We should not only make the purchase decision on the basis of visual appearance but also need to focus on the substance, comfort, fitting, durability and safety.

Hence, by prioritizing both aesthetic look and quality performance, we can find a shoe that makes us feel confident with a perfect match to the quote –“Fitness” for purpose”

Stay connected for more information!

 Naresh Kumar, Sr Faculty@School of Footwear Design & Production, FDDI Hyderabad


Tuesday, April 1, 2025

The Art of Creation: Unveiling the Design Process

Wherever the field may be, whether it’s fashion and textile or any other branch of art for that matter, the process of designing is always an amalgamation of art, craft, intuition, and research. It is the poetry in every single artist’s mind that remains silent and gets interwoven into every silhouette, stroke, and thread. That is what makes the process of designing uncoupled from other fields. It is a journey of a person’s imagination along with reality, where concepts take raw shape and then evolve into stunning pieces of art.

Steps in the Design Process

The designing process is like that first brush stroke on an empty canvas, with the only difference being that it starts off with a touch of imagination and inspiration. After that, it follows a process of careful and thoughtful steps that are:


1.Inspiration & Concept Development

Every single design has its roots in a story. And that story can be found in things such as the textures of nature, the human emotions, architecture, and even a culture’s history. Designers gather ideas, sketch, and create mood boards in order to form a new narrative.

2.Research & Exploration

With art being a conversation, it often mixes and matches traditions with innovation. Everything from materials, historical references, and market trends, designers have to analyze it all to ensure that their pieces are relevant and meaningful which makes it a bridge between the past and future.

 

3.Sketching & Ideation

Lines move across the paper as sketches evolve from ideas to rough drafts. The designer manipulates silhouettes, colours, textures and patterns, honing ideas until they come to life. Computer software and hand-drawn sketches combine to form a blueprint of the finished product.

4.Material Selection & Experimentation

Fabrics tell stories. The right textiles, embellishments, and textures give a design soul. Swatches, draping, and textile manipulation bring dimension, and let designers sculpt their ideas into reality.

5.Prototyping & Refinement

From 2D drawings to 3D prototypes, designs take shape for the first time. Draping on mannequins, testing fabrics, and iterating samples refine every detail. Art meets science as we transform ideas into wearable art. 

6.Execution & Finalization

As the last piece comes together, it's all about the craftsmanship. Stitch by stitch, fold by fold, the masterpiece is born. The creation is complete and ready for the world to see.


Conclusion

The design process is a continual metamorphosis of creativity, where passion becomes precise and ideas burgeon into beauty. Whatever its denomination-a designer, an artist or an admirer of creativity-design is a celebration of the process of art. Ultimately, everything grand is a dream, an idea, and is brought to life out of mere courage.

Dr. Anshul Sharma, Sr. Faculty, SOFD, FDDI, Hyderabad.

Thursday, March 27, 2025

A Legacy in Time- Revival of Heritage with Handlooms

Introduction

India is one vibrant homeland where culture and tradition are tremendously rich and special. Art and crafts are alive and well there and they resonate so well with excitement and colour of everyday life by the lively and ebullient societies there. Having a history dating back more than 5,000 years, the art and craft traditions of India are the living proofs of the resourcefulness, tenacity, and cleverness of Indians.

From rich textiles and awe-inspiring pottery to breathtaking sculptures and resplendent paintings, Indian craft and art have determined not only the visual face of India but have also offered windows into its tapestry of diverse cultures. Today we take time to celebrate different crafts and art forms that are part of India's precious inheritance and show how long they have been appealing to people.


The Colours of Indian Textiles

For as long as centuries have been rolling by, fabrics have been the mainstay of Indian art and craftsmanship. Every region in India has unique weaving patterns and designs, usually symbolizing the social, cultural, and geographical diversity of the region. Some of the well-known textile traditions are:

  1. Banarasi Silk: Erstwhile these beautiful silk saris originate from Varanasi and are legendary for the rich embellishments of embroidery and fine weaving work. They're super favourites for brides to grace their weddings with great style.


  1. Kanchipuram Sarees: Originating from Tamil Nadu, these sarees are characterized by their bright colours and luxurious gold Zari work, representing tradition and elegance.




  1. Bandhani: There's a special way of dyeing fabric from the place called Gujarat and Rajasthan together, and it's called Bandhani. The trick leads to dyed fabrics that have bright, bold colours as well as wild patterns. Pretty colours usually turn up on typical garments like stoles and flowing skirts.


  1. Khadi: Khadi hand spun and hand-woven fabric that caught the eye and heart during India's fight for independence mixes sustainability philosophy and total independence with down-to-earth aplomb.

These fabrics are not only statements of fashion but also witnesses to the history and traditions that have been handed down through generations.


The Splendor of Paintings and Murals

Indian painting styles are as diverse as the nation. Whether it’s the ancient rock paintings so beautiful in Bhimbetka or vibrant murals that decorate walls across India's Kerala, each one manages to be a whole different room to the next. Some of the prominent styles include:

  1. Madhubani: Originating from Bihar this beautiful folk art is colourful and full of beautiful, intricate designs and really excels at depicting myth, nature and domestic life.
  2. Warli: A tribal art form from Maharashtra, Warli paintings use simple geometric shapes to convey the connection between humans and nature, effectively narrating the story of life.
  3. Miniature Paintings: These tiny paintings, born in the Mughal period, are filled with details and colours and portray scenes of palace life, war, and courtly scenes.

The Cultural Significance of Arts and Crafts

Indian crafts are not just beautiful. Each art form carries a story and honours the rich history and culture of communities. That story is also a way to express ourselves socially. Artistic skills are handed down through families who are artisans, so the kinds of work they create always have a sense of both tradition and new twists. From generation to generation, the work evolves a bit but it always stays very connected to tradition. Generations fly by, but through family they keep passing down these craft skills and arts so something very important keeps the fire of old skills alive. In addition, in modern times, there is a new interest in handcrafts as individuals look for sustainable and fair alternatives to mass production.


Conclusion

Honouring the Craftsmanship of India

Honouring India's rich tapestry of art and craftsmanship is a time of surpassing honour, and it's powerful to just remember the artisans who spend their whole lives keeping these traditions alive. Through buying handmade products or patronizing local artisans, we can all play a part in keeping this rich cultural heritage alive.

Stay connected for more information!

Dr. Anshul Sharma, Sr. Faculty@School of Fashion Design

Monday, March 24, 2025

Retail and Fashion Industry Evolution: A Decade of Growth, Innovation, and Performance

Introduction

Over the past decade, the Retail and Fashion industries have experienced significant transformations, influenced by technological advancements, shifting consumer behaviors, and global economic changes. Here's an overview of their evolution, growth, and performance:​


Retail Industry growth & Expansion:

  • Growth and Market Expansion: The Indian retail market has seen substantial growth, expanding threefold over the last decade. In the fiscal year 2019-20, the sector contributed about 10% to India's GDP and employed over 35 million individuals. ​
  • E-commerce Surge: The rise of e-commerce has been a game-changer. Platforms like Amazon and Flipkart have made online shopping mainstream, leading to a significant shift in consumer purchasing habits.​
  • Omni channel Retailing: Retailers have adopted omnichannel strategies, integrating online and offline experiences to meet evolving consumer expectations. This approach has enhanced customer engagement and streamlined operations.​
  • Technological Integration: The use of data analytics, AI, and machine learning has enabled personalized shopping experiences, efficient inventory management, and improved supply chain operations.​

 



Fashion Industry Changes over time:

  • Sustainability Focus: There's been a notable shift towards sustainable and ethical fashion. Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency, leading brands to adopt eco-friendly practices and materials.​
  • Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion: While fast fashion brands have grown rapidly by offering trendy, affordable clothing, there's a counter-movement towards 'slow fashion,' emphasizing quality, durability, and ethical production.​
  • Digital Fashion Shows: The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated the adoption of digital fashion shows and virtual showrooms, making fashion more accessible globally and reducing the industry's carbon footprint.​
  • Resale and Rental Markets: The resale (second-hand) and rental fashion markets have flourished, driven by a desire for sustainability and affordability. Platforms facilitating these services have become increasingly popular.​

 


Conclusion:

In summary, the past decade has been transformative for Retail and Fashion, with technology and sustainability at the forefront of change. As these industries continue to evolve, staying attuned to consumer preferences and global trends will be crucial for sustained growth and relevance.

 Dr Balakrishna D,Sr Faculty@School of Retail & Fashion Merchandise

Vanishing Soles: Artisan Stories from Jiyaguda, Hyderabad.

I have recently visited Jiyaguda, a suburb in the heart of Hyderabad. The place was once filled with the beat of hammers shaping leather and...